From whiskey dens to traditional back-alley Izakayas, drunk salarymen to girls in fetish gear, trips to jail to games of Mario Bros, there’s never a dull moment on a night out in Tokyo !
Photo credit: Lonely Planet
Click, click. The handcuffs go on. This would normally be the sign of a night gone horribly wrong, but not in Tokyo. Prisoners scream in the distance as you’re led into the jail, past rows and rows of iron bars, before finally arriving at your cell. The cuffs come off. The warden slams the door. You sit and ponder your fate. There’s only one thing to do: order a drink!
This is the Lockup, one of Tokyo’s more eccentric theme bars. Cocktails can be chosen according to what you think you did wrong to end up here, from ‘Bad Loan’ to ‘Drug Addiction’. They’ll arrive in beakers, test tubes and syringes, as if you’ve been doomed to a life of internment as a science experiment. They’re highly alchoholic, too – maybe prison life isn’t so bad after all.
Sounds strange? This is but a taste of the outlandishness that a night out in Tokyo can deliver, a mere nibble at the edges of a city that specialises in the fetishist and the fascinating :
- Get milkshakes served by a manga character & screamed at by a maid
- Sing karaoke from a bathtub
- Play Nintendo games with Power Glove while slugging back beers
- Step into a bar with room for six people and drink whisky cocktails with rich salarymen clientele
- Go past a ‘love hotel’ where rooms are hired by the half-hour and Hello Kitty-styled props are as prominent as whips and chains
PERFECT GETAWAY
Most of Tokyo’s best places are unsigned, or only signed in kanji, which makes finding them difficult. So, first identify a popular area and then explore on your own. In the traditional suburb of Asakusa, wander the back alleys until you spy the telltale red lanterns that signify Izakayas (traditional Japanese bars), then step inside and see what you find. Sake is served hot or cold here, and the different variations are numbered according to their degree of sweetness. Food is served in tapas-style portions and, like most things in Japan, created with meticulous care.
Now, if you want to get weird then first off head to Akihabara, an area with ‘maid cafes’ – Tokyo institutions that have to be seen to be believed. The waitresses dress like manga cartoon characters – some will be cutesy and sweet, others brash and rude. Try Mai Dreamin‘ to get you started.
In the mood to sample some geek culture? Then head to the 8bit Cafe in Shinjuku, where customers get the chance to play old-school Sega and Nintendo games while downing cold beers. Next it’s time for some Karaoke action in the foreigner-friendly Roppongi district. (There are certain seedy areas & clubs here and you must exercise caution at all times!) If you’re a fan of Lost in Translation then go to Karaoke Kan in Shibuya which is where Bill Murray famously hit the microphone.
While you’re in Shibuya call into the Lockup for handcuffs and cocktails. Then return to Shinjuku to explore alleyway after alleyway filled with the tiniest and classiest of whiskey bars. Cocktails are approached in the same way food is here : as an art! It’s not just a drink, it’s a show. Sit back and watch the masters at work.
GETTING THERE
Fly into Narita Airport and take a bus transfer into the city (you can also catch a train). Base yourself in either Shibuya, Shinjuku or Asakusa. Shibuya is the city’s main nightlife hub; Asakusa is older, quieter and more traditional, providing a nice contrast to the bustling city centre. Tokyo is generally very safe at night. Just be aware that some clubs with strict door policies may not let foreigners inside.
Tokyo by night is an eye-opener, but there are still surprises in the daylight hours. On a Sunday, head to the district of Harajuku and the area around Jingu Bridge. This is where the ‘Harajuku girls’ in their over-the-top outfits hang out. Their costumes defy description – from manga-inspired gothic dolls to artistic pieces that even Lady Gaga would be proud to call her own, it’s a feast of the creative and bizarre. A word of warning: as if to add to the contradiction of all this outlandishness in a conservative country, the girls who are dressed to impress will be less than impressed if you try to take a photo of them!
TOKYO TRAVEL TIPS
- Best time of year – April for Cherry Blossoms & September during Autumn
- Ideal Time Commitment : 5 days
- Exploration : Most small bars and Izakayas won’t have any English signage
- Pack : Better to be overdressed than knocked back from a bar for not looking smart !
Reference : Lonely Planet
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